June 29, 2025
Mastering Motorcycle Parking: Tips for Every Surface Challenge
In this episode of the Throttle and Roast podcast, host Niels Meersschaert addresses one of the common frustrations faced by motorcyclists: parking. He discusses the nuances of parking on different surfaces, including pavement, gravel, grass, and dirt. Niels highlights the challenges that arise, such as slipping, the instability of kickstands on soft ground, and the impact of weather conditions. Listeners will gain valuable insights and practical solutions to effectively park their motorcycles in various environments, ensuring a safer riding experience. By the end of the episode, you’ll have the skills for mastering motorcycle parking.
Low cost Revzilla sidestand puck
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00:00 - Introduction
01:01 - Different Surfaces
17:31 - Slopes
27:24 - Angled Parking
34:27 - Wrap up
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You'll never see a motorcycle parked outside a psychiatrist's office, but how do you park everywhere else?
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Welcome to the Throttle and Roast podcast. I'm your host, Niels Meersschaert. In this episode, we'll dive into one of the biggest frustrations that motorcyclists can face, parking their motorcycle. Now, while you might assume you can park anywhere that a car could, some features of a motorcycle, like leaning on a side stand, no parking brakes, and being easily jostled can make parking a bit harder than you might We'll dive into situations such as different surfaces, slopes, and even angled parking, and discuss the challenges you'd face in each of these, as well as some solutions to help you park most effectively.
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So let's start with a few of the different surfaces that you might encounter. Now, if we think of the most basic one, that would probably be just general pavement. And this is probably what most riders are accustomed to, and probably feel a little bit more comfortable with. The surface itself is fairly hard. It's going to good support to your stand, be it a kickstand or a center stand, and in general, is going to be a decent surface from a grip perspective. You're not going to worry about slipping with your feet. But there's a caveat that we need to look at for some other types of surfaces. So let's start with gravel. Now, gravel is going to be one of these surfaces that has a lot of small stones. They're very easily rolled, both under the tires as well as your feet. And this can cause the rider to feel a little bit less steady as they're riding along. Now, if you ride off road, of course, this is no big deal. But if you're only a street rider and you only stick to pavement when you hit that gravel parking lot, this can feel a little bit intimidating. The next one that I'd sort of focus on for us, is essentially grass or dirt. And each of those surfaces will have a slightly different characteristic to it. But in general, you're going to run into some different feeling than you would with a paved surface or even a gravel surface. So in general, gravel surfaces will be relatively stable in terms of their slope. They'll be fairly flat overall, whereas grass and dirt may have a whole bunch of bumps and undulations. That becomes its own type of challenge. So let's kind of dig into what some of these challenges or issues that you might find with different surfaces. if you are finding yourself slipping around while you're trying to park your bike, this is pretty common on gravel.
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And oftentimes with wet grass or dirt, you may run into the same situation, especially with your rear tire. If you give a little too much throttle, you can actually break traction on that rear tire. And that can cause the bike to move around and the rear end to slide around on you.
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And that can be disconcerting if you aren't used to it or expecting it. gravel in particular, because it's all just these small little stones, has even more likelihood that you will be able to cause that to break traction even if you get really heavy on the throttle.
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Same thing goes with your feet.
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If you're trying to duck walk or if you're just coming to a stop and you put your feet down, that foot might slip on the gravel or on wet grass. And then maybe you're going to dump the bike.
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So these are some of the main issues that we run into with these other surfaces that are not paved surfaces. The last one that we want to think about that's an issue for these type of surfaces. And again, this is non-paved surfaces. Is that your kickstand sinks into the ground.
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And this is probably one of the largest issues. If you were able to get around the slipping and sliding, you're able to get to a parking spot, find your way, get that kickstand down. This issue of the kickstand almost sinking into the ground and then your bike toppling over is a bit of a problem. Now the reason for this is that lots of bikes have these very small kickstand feet and it puts all of the weight of the bike as it's leaning over into that one small spot. And all that pressure onto a soft surface like a dirt or a gravel can actually cause the foot to sink in further into there. And then the lean angle of the bike is going to shift and it may lean over too far and no longer be able to support the bike and the bike will fall over. Now this can still happen on paved surfaces. So don't think that it's protected against there, especially when it's hot out.
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Now the past few days here on the East Coast of the United States has been a bit of a heat wave where temperatures were close to a hundred degrees Fahrenheit. Massive amounts of humidity, so it just was a miserable type of a condition.
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And you're seeing all these reports of where there's been buckling in the roads just from that extreme heat, so especially at the expansion joints, they've just gone and expanded far beyond and then actually cracked.
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There's been some, uh, lifting of the surface, so you can imagine how this heat will have that impact. This does tend to be more common amongst asphalt as opposed to concrete type of surfaces because the asphalt already has some spaces between each of almost small stones that make up asphalt and if it gets a little too hot, it can soften up and now that kickstand can sink into the asphalt and you have the same problem that you would have onto a loose dirt or grass surface. So how do we handle these situations with different types of surfaces that we might run into? Well, I'm a very strong advocate that learning to ride on dirt is helpful no matter what kind of bike you ride. So if you only ride a cruiser, I think still taking a class and you don't obviously have to use your own bike for that class, but taking a class on how to learn, how to ride on dirt is incredibly helpful. And I think it will make you a better road rider. And the reason for this when you're riding off the bike is going to move around underneath you and you get comfortable with that.
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You know how to react. You know how to adjust your position on the bike. You know how to handle the throttle so that you don't over accentuate that slipping.
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So that if you run into any sort of a situation on pavement, whether it's a little bit of loose gravel in the middle of a road, whether it's, you're getting into these off-road parking situations, you're going to feel far more comfortable just dealing with the bike moving a little bit underneath you. so I think it's really helpful to learn how to ride on dirt now, even if you have an ADV bike and there are many people who have ADV bikes, and this is why the cliche almost appears with an ADV bike that only goes and parks at a Starbucks, taking that class can still help make you more comfortable, even if you don't intend to mostly ride off-road, but it will help you ride on paved surfaces. Even when you have a little bit of uncertainty on them with more confidence. if you can take a class. Now, if you're not willing or not able to take a class, there's a couple of tips that you can do that will help you at least in a more basic level, if you are getting into those other type of surfaces that we discussed. So the first one is you have to realize that because your coefficient of traction on the motorcycle is less than you would have on pavement, it's really critical for you to be very easy on the controls. So things like your throttle, your brakes. If you have ride modes, for example, put yours in the tamest setting. Something like rain is a really good one. Now, I actually was just adventure bike out yesterday. I just picked up the new bike. We'll talk about that in a future episode. But I was riding the bike and I was hitting some dirt roads just to kind of get a feel for it. And on my old adventure bike, which didn't have like traction control, my traction control was just my wrist. What I would do is anytime I got into a new dirt surface, I would sort of womp on the throttle to kind of find the point at which it would break traction and start to give where the rear wheel was slipping against the dirt. And I would do the same thing on here and I put it onto one of off-road oriented pro modes where it has no intervention whatsoever. And it was able to, you know, very easily break traction and just get that rear end wagging and sliding all around. Now, it was also raining a bit yesterday. So some sections would have a little bit of rain, even on pavement. So I would switch it onto the rain mode for this bike on the pavement sections. And just to try it out, when I hit the next dirt section, I left it on rain mode and then I do the same thing. I'd hit on the throttle.
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In fact, I was going full throttle and it would not break traction. So if you have a bike that has these different ride modes put it into rain mode will really, really help. Now, we talked about the throttle. The brakes are in the same thing, so don't grab a fistful of brakes and try to stop immediately.
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Especially if you're hitting the front brake, which is where most of our braking force comes in, you can actually cause that front wheel to kind of fold over a little bit, push, and now you're gonna have a loss of control as you're trying to stop.
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So, sometimes the better bet to do if you're riding in those type of situations is rely more on the rear brake to help slow you down without jamming that front brake, but I would still encourage you to be soft in your brake application as much as you possibly could. Of course, turning is another big thing, so you don't want to be trying to carve through corners as you're in this parking lot. So, just be a little bit lighter on the turns. Try to be smoother in your actions as you're moving along. The other thing that's really important to start to think about your riding gear.
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Now, if you have boots that have good tread on the bottom, you can duck walk your bike. And especially if you're not a very comfortable rider off-road or on these type of surfaces, this may be the natural inclination that you would have is that you say, oh, okay, I'll just duck walk it.
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And this is why a lot of cruiser riders love the low seat on a cruiser is because it makes it easier for them to duck walk.
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And the bike is, quite frankly, pretty heavy. And you may not feel as comfortable keeping it in balance when you're sitting on the pegs. So the boots, having good tread on them, will really help. And make sure that they're going to have that sort of tread for when you're in these unpaved type of surfaces will really help even in that parking lot. And if you're particularly short, whether you're on a cruiser or an ADV bike, it doesn't really matter which type of bike, just scoot your butt a little bit off of the seat. Generally, towards the left will be the better because that's where you're going to put the kickstand down anyway. And effectively, what this does for you is it gives your leg a little bit more reach because you'll keep one, your right side, butt cheek, let's say, on the seat, but the left side is completely off. You've effectively given yourself some extra inches of reach, and that can help make you feel a little bit more confident. So that if you did need to put a down and stab it, you can do that with far more confidence and make sure that you're going to have a really foot hold. Now, the third option that you can do is even just get off the bike completely.
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You can always walk the bike.
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stand next to the bike. You'd still have your hands on the control so you can operate the throttle, the clutch, and the brake, the front brake. But you're standing to the side of the bike. So now you have full control of the bike. You're able to hold it up and adjust it. Now, the easiest way to do that typically is to be on the left-hand side of the bike because that's where your kickstand is. And then this way, when you're ready to stop, you can just deploy that kickstand and lean the bike over. So you can walk the bike. So that's kind of big main areas that I'd say if you're finding that you're slipping on these type of surfaces. Now, the last one that we talked about, this other issue, is really about your kickstand sinking into the surface. And we talked about that this can happen on these soft surfaces, the grass, the dirt, the gravel, but it can also happen on pavement. many adventure bikes will typically have larger feet for the side stand or even have some aftermarket. You can think of them almost like shoes that you would put onto that foot to make it even a physically footprint.
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the reason why you find these quite commonly for ADV bikes is there's a little bit more of an expectation that they're going to be riding off pavement. And so they're usually more available to have that permanently on there. You do have to have one that's designed for your bikes that when you do retract the side stand, it can still close in even with that larger foot. But if you don't have an ADV bike or you don't have an ADV bike, which has an aftermarket option for these shoes to put onto your side stand foot, can look at getting a puck to put underneath your side stand foot and spread the load over a larger area. This works in exactly the same way as these feet that would be just permanently attached to the side stand foot. The difference is that these are ones that you deploy as you need to. And sometimes they're called kickstand pads, pucks, side stand feet, or even coasters. So there's a few different names.
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So if you were to search for there's a couple different variety of names that people will use to describe these. you put this little puck underneath your side stand and then you lean the bike onto it. Now for most bikes, this is pretty easy to do. However, there are some bikes, particularly cruisers, that have a Jiffy stand. And a Jiffy stand is, it's kind of a clever idea fundamentally and I think this really started with Harley, was the first manufacturer to introduce them.
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But what it does is, on most motorcycles, the side stand can still, even when it's fully deployed and you have the bike leaning against it, it can still sort of retract and fold back into its stored position that you would use when it's riding.
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Well, Jiffy stand has another little mechanism that allows the side stand to now come up and then lock into a groove and now it won't move forward or back to kind of go to that normal retracted position. It'll sort of lock into place. The challenge with this though, is that its position, its natural position when you actually just have it initially deployed and where the foot would be is gonna change as it stretches out. So, when you're placing this puck underneath there, you kind of have to have a little bit more movement of the puck below that because it's gonna move a little further away from the bike.
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There are some of these pucks that will actually be designed for this style. And they'll have almost a raised section on the top that kind of fits in with this sort of the wedge shape that most of these Jiffy stands have. And then this way, it can engage with that and still move a little bit, a couple inches over as you put that stand down.
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Now, I have one of these from RevZilla that I use on my R18 and I'll add a link to it in the show notes, but several others are available from different brands. Now, the reason why I happen to have gotten the RevZilla one and it's why I'll put that into the link in the show notes is it's about five dollars. It's not very expensive.
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It's not gonna break the bank.
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You can throw it into a little pouch. I have one of frame pouches on my R18 and I just store it in there. So, it's always on the bike and available if I need that to deploy in any situation. there is a little hole in one end of it. So, if you wanted, you could attach a bit of a tether, be able to bring it up to, let's say handlebar set, it's a reminder, oh yeah, I have the puck deployed. Now, I use it on one of my other bikes. I have one from AeroStitch, which is a little sort of carbon fiber and it works fine for non-jiffy stand type of bikes. And it's a little bit more compact as a result, but it came with the tether along with a, you know, remove before flight kind of thing in a loop. So, you can just run that loop over your left handlebar. And it's just a visual reminder that you have that. And then this way you can just pull it up with the tether once you've gotten the bike stood up rather than having to try to reach down again after you've gotten the bike. So, having a tether makes this a lot easier, especially if you're a little bit shorter and you can't reach down to get that very easily. Now, if you don't even want to spend that $5 that that RevZilla puck will cost you, you can get creative and, or if you forgot the you know, to bring along with you, you can look for a large flat rock. You can look for a crushed can and either of those will foundationally do the same thing. You're spreading the load of your side-stand foot over a larger surface area, which reduces the pressure This also works for pavement in hot weather. So, in hot weather, I will still put the puck down because it will help just in case that asphalt gets a little too hot as the bike is parked sitting there and it's not going to sink in.
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So, let's switch to one of the next issues that typically will bother a lot of riders when they're thinking about parking. And this is a slope. Now, parking on a hill can a pain for a few different reasons on a bike. Your bike has to be balanced on a side-stand or a center-stand when it's parked. And if the angle of the slope doesn't it may lean too far or not enough and then could tip over much more easily. The other issue is most motorcycles don't have a parking brake. if you're used to a car where you would just pull the parking brake as you park the car on a slope, you maybe even turn the wheel to kind of, if the brake was to fail, it would just sort of roll out of the way. We don't really have these options on a motorcycle. And if you park nose on a slope, it can be really hard get that bike out of that spot. Motorcycles in general don't have reverse. Now, the Ural gear up would be an exception being a big sidecar rig. There's a few other brands of motorcycles that have reverse, but in general we don't have reverse on a bike. So these are the issues that you have with parking on a slope. So what can we do about this? How do become more comfortable with being able to find leverage parking on a slope? Well, the most important thing is really being aware of the slope. Some can be quite subtle. So it may be a very gentle slope. while others might be as clear as day. It's a really steep slope. And seeing how the slope lays will help you plan how to park the bike.
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They're going to look and see slope of that putting green so that they can figure out how they're going to hit the ball and where the ball is going to naturally fall with gravity You're kind of trying to do the same thing with your bikes. You want to have an awareness of how the slope where you're going to be parking. And importantly, is it a consistent slope? Is it a changing slope? This will affect as you think about where you're going to position the bike and how you're going to deploy your stands. So just have an awareness is the very first step that you can do. Now, in it's better to park the bike uphill.
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This way you can ride out. And I mentioned earlier that most bikes don't have reverse. And I can't tell you how many times I've seen a rider sort of mindlessly park their bike pointing downhill. And then they struggle to back it out when it's time to leave. And they can't duck walk it. They don't have the leg strength to be able to do it, or it's a really heavy bike. So taking that moment to survey the slope will save you a lot of headaches. Now, if the spot is against a curb, you want to back the bike up until the rear tire hits that curb. And this almost provides a built-in brake, if you will. And if you've had a parking brake fail on a car, sometimes we put a stone behind the rear tire just to keep the the car from rolling.
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It's the same premise on a motorcycle. So by putting that rear tire all the way up against the curb, you're going to give a built-in parking brake. And if you don't have a curb, you can also do just the same things we would do in a car. It's just find a piece of rock that you can or behind that rear tire.
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try to not park perpendicular to the slope. Ideally, you'd park the bike so that your rear tire is facing and the whole bike is facing in line with the If you did it perpendicular, meaning 90 degrees to either side, you're going to have a bit of a problem because now let's say you parked with the bike facing toward the left of the slope so that now the side stand will be facing downhill. Well, what's going to naturally happen is that the angle of the bike will be more than it would typically be if you parked on a totally flat surface. And it may be too much and it may overwhelm the bike and the bike will running down the hill. Same thing happens in the opposite direction. If you parked the bike facing to the right fully perpendicularly, well, now the side stand is uphill and it may just barely be sitting there. It may not be enough to kind of keep it stable and it makes it very easy for a little jostle to suddenly cause the bike to fall off of the side stand downhill. But now not toward the side stand, but away from the side stand. So try to parking perpendicularly. And in general, I say like park uphill does not need to be that you are at a zero degree, although that may in many cases work out ideally. But if you're between 0 and 45 degrees... will work the best with most slopes. if the spot is running parallel to the road and it has a curb to one side, you'll need some angle just to be able to park, you know, not straight uphill because you wanna get that rear tire against the curb. So that's why I say about that somewhere between that zero and forty-five degrees tends to be the best option for you of how you would be able to get that rear tire parking-- against the but also avoid having too severe of an angle going. Now remember this range is a rough guide. You have to look at the specific slope that you're facing, which is why getting that read and lay of the slope is really critical. And some bikes, depending upon how the side stand is set up, they may naturally wanna park the bike a little bit more upright or they may be more leaned over, and that may influence your decision of just exactly how much of that angle will work right for your bike. Because you have to think of whether it's gonna be stable in that position or not. So this is really the critical point for zero to forty-five. Take it as a rough guide and adjust to taste for your specific motorcycle. next thing is think of the direction of the bike. Most bikes have the side stand on the left. So if you park angled to the left, the bike leans over more than it would on a flat surface. and that's why I said that use that zero to forty-five degrees as a rough guide. If you typically go beyond forty-five degrees, it's gonna be much more substantial of the lean, but then zero to forty-five will give you a range that you can work with and tune it to taste. Maybe it's twenty-two degrees for your bike, but adjusted as necessary. The closer you are to pointing straight uphill, the less the effect of causing the lean to adjust to left and right would be different than if you parked on a flat surface, so you can think of it just from basic geometry. If you're pointing straight uphill, the bike's lean will be the same as if you were a flat surface. It's just that the rear tire is gonna be below the front tire. That's the primary difference now. But it doesn't affect your lean. think of it just from basic geometry if you're pointing straight uphill the bike's lean will be the same as if you were at a flat surface it's just that the rear tire is going to be below the front tire that's the that's the primary difference now but it doesn't affect your lean but you would lose the ability to have that curb behind it unless the curb is at the bottom which would even be better and just be cognizant and aware of that now if you angle to the right you're going to have the opposite problem you're actually going to have the natural tendency of gravity is going to pull the bike away from the side stand not toward the side stand and this can make it feel a little bit less steady and no matter what angle you're going to try the most important thing is slowly lower the bike onto that side stand and the reason why i really want to emphasize you do it slowly is this way you can stop it if it starts to get too much for you to feel comfortable and so by going nice and slow you can feel exactly where it would naturally go and if it's going more than you feel comfortable with you can stop it bring it back up to straight reposition the the bike and try again. now this becomes critical because when you want to leave from this parking spot the angle of that bike you have to raise it back up to vertical and if the bike is a pretty heavy bike and it's leaned over really far you may not be able to comfortably do that it may take far more strength than you have available to so if you want to make sure that the angle the bike will lay down on is comfortable for you and if you have one of those jiffy stands remember it's not just when the stand starts to hit the ground but it's when it fully engages so it can go even further so still go slow even once the stand does start to touch until it's fully locked so the last thing that you want to do is you want to test the stand and the angle so with a solid hold on the bike give it a bit of a jostle you want to check if someone were to bump in the bike either via a bumping it as it's parking or someone even just walking by and hitting a handlebar and jostling it would it come off the stand And while it might appear stable at first glance, you might be close to that tipping point where it might suddenly fall the opposite direction, or it's just too far over onto the side stand and now it would overwhelm it. So try bumping it from a few different directions just to see how stable it is. And if you have any doubt whatsoever, either reposition the bike, maybe change that angle a little bit, or if it's really an extreme case, you may need to find an alternate location.
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So let's switch into angled parking. Now angled parking is an interesting option because angled parking typically is designed to take a little bit less space than you would have with, uh, if you were to park straight in to it, to the side.
00:27:45.875 --> 00:28:32.421
So it'd be perpendicular to the flow of traffic but it's maybe not as space efficient as if it was parallel to it. Like, let's say if you're running along a side street where you'd have parking along the curb, it's typically going to be parallel to the flow of traffic. Angled parking tries to split the difference. It's a little bit easier to pull into the spot than having to parallel park to the side of flow of traffic. So it can be a little bit more efficient to get in and out of angled parking when you're driving. But on a motorcycle, this is not always the and I've seen a lot of times also angled parking is pretty common on slopes. And this makes sense for cars But on a motorcycle, we have the same issues that we just talked about with a slope.
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We're going to be potentially parking in a way that is difficult to do this. the last issue would be thinking about whether it is easy seeing that a vehicle is in the spot. And especially for bikes that have maybe like a truck next to them, it's going to block visibility.
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So if people don't necessarily see the narrow view of a bike, especially if it's all the way in and it's not sticking out towards the back, they may not think it's there. And then they go to pull in and bang, smack into the back of the bike because they don't see it until the last second. So this is another issue that one can run into with angled parking is visibility for people to know that that space is occupied. So let's talk about some of the solutions. So if this angled parking is on a hill, really evaluate if you have the proper lean angle to back the bike out.
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Now, while you can always put something behind the rear wheel to wedge it, the angle is often the bigger issue. And if that angled parking is like I just mentioned a moment ago of it's going downhill and you pull forward into that angled parking.
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Well, now your front wheel is below your rear wheel in terms of the slope, which means you have to back out the bike up a hill. It's going to take a lot more energy to do it. Now, most motorcycles, as talked about before, don't have reverse. So this would be sort of like the worst case scenario for you.
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Whereas if you have angled parking as you're going up the slope, well, now the curb isn't an option for you. So you could pull in and it'll be easy to kind of get out because gravity will just help roll the bike back. you're going to need to put rock or something behind that wheel just to keep the bike from rolling out. Now, there will be people who say, oh, I just put it into first gear and therefore I'm safe. That's true.
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And you should always put the bike when you're on a slope into gear and especially your lowest gear. So first gear acts sort of like a brake, but it's relying upon the compression of the engine. If you have a big V-twin, there's a lot of compression that's part of that bike. As a result, it will give more of a holding force than maybe a small 125 thumper would do. So it provides a little bit, but not in totality. And if you have a bike that has a CVT, for example, like a scooter, more often than not, when the engine is not running up at high rev, the transmission, the Is completely decoupled from the engine, so there is no braking on it whatsoever, use it as an extra, but assume that you still need to put in a rock or something, or curb, something to physically prevent the wheel from rotating and rolling. Now another thing that you can while it's an angled lane, you don't have to be centered in that lane when you park the bike. You can do an angle within that and use up the full width of the parking space to whatever angle is going to work the best for the particular slope that you're at. So you can adjust your angle accordingly, Now on a hill, as I mentioned, you really want to ideally park with the tail in anyway, so that you can go against the curb. Now obviously if bike is, you know, facing such that you're going uphill with the angled parking, if you put the rear wheel against the curb, and the nose is facing downhill, that doesn't really help you any. This would only work if you were going downhill with there, where you back the bike into the spot.
00:32:17.286 --> 00:32:33.150
Even though you'll have to make a sharper turn as you're exiting it, it does just give you that extra simple way to get out. But I want to show you how the rear wheel, so you can just help you out. And you're also, again, having that nose pointing uphill as you were to exit. So just be cognizant of that you can change how you do this.
00:32:35.299 --> 00:32:45.698
You can also see the other side of the road that you have for the angled parking. You may have signs that indicate you must point a nose in. Obviously then that's going to limit your ability to be flexible with this.
00:32:42.529 --> 00:33:29.979
And you've got to just be sort of being mindful. But the same rules that would apply into slope parking in general, still play in with angled parking. So if it's not feeling right, you can't make it work for you, leave that spot, find an alternate one that's maybe on a flatter area. Now, if you're on a flat parking space that's angled parking, you may want to park towards the rear of the spot. And the reason for this is it gives more visibility to those other vehicles that are coming by. And then we'll see, oh, there is actually a vehicle in the spot. And you have to take this with a little bit of a grain of salt and use to sense it in some parking situations.
00:33:26.719 --> 00:33:50.522
And I find this very common, like even my local town, we have angled parking all roads typically have a little bit of a crown to them. So there's a natural downhill slope to the side of the lane. So if I was to park here, it was still slope slightly downhill as you're always going pull the bike in.
00:33:46.038 --> 00:33:53.262
Now, it's such a minor slope with just the crown of the road.
00:33:50.522 --> 00:34:00.324
I have complete confidence and be able to back out the bike, no matter what it is, whether it's even just, you know, a light scooter or heavy, heavy cruiser.
00:34:00.354 --> 00:34:01.673
I would feel very comfortable with doing that.
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But I may want to park it such that the front wheel now is all the way up against the curb to give me that again, preventing the bike from rolling down that slight slope. So whether you can park all the way out or not, it's going to depend on whether it's a perfectly angled parking or it's the angled parking with the natural crown of the road.
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So use your judgment as you get into any of these situations.
00:34:27.759 --> 00:35:01.289
So we covered several situations that can make parking a motorcycle require a bit more planning than you might do in a car. We covered some different surfaces, we covered slopes, and we covered angled parking along with tips on how to make the most of each of those different situations. So my question for you is what parking situation do you find the most frustrating with your motorcycle? Share your thoughts through the text to show link in the show notes or leave us a voicemail at throttleandroast.com/voicemail.
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Thanks for listening. I'll talk to you next week.
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